Victorian Jewelry: The Romantic Period 1837 to 1860
Part One
Vintage Victorian Bracelet Gold Gate Link Citrine Gemstone Bracelet 1840s Victorian Jewelry Fine Antique Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/boylerpf
Queen Victoria's Emerald Parure.
The Victorian Jewelry Era was a magnificent time in the History of Antique Jewelry that lasted the entire lifespan of its namesake Queen from 1837 to 1901. Advances in technology, the growing middle class, discovery of gold in California and Australia and women overtaking men as the primary jewelry wearers all resulted in more jewelry being produced during the nineteenth century than in all prior history.
Antique Mourning Ring, 1840s 18k with Black Enamel and Hair..https://www.etsy.com/shop/BelmontandBellamy
1837: Victoria Becomes Queen.
1837: Louis J.M.Daguerre perfects the Daguerreotype Photographic Process.
1837: The Telegraph is patented by Cooke and Wheatstone, Improved by Samuel Morse, First message sent 1844.
1837: Enameled Garter Armlet made for Queen Victoria; Order of the Garter strap and buckle motifs become popular.
1837:Charles Lewis Tiffany founds company in New York City; becomes Tiffany & Co. in 1853.
1837: Falize opens up shop in Paris
Beautiful jewelry inspired by the Renaissance and Middle Ages was very popular. Production of Memento mori, Religious and Talismantic jewelry was everywhere and suddenly a necessity for everyone. Symbolism associated with Flow
1837: Victoria Becomes Queen.
1837: Louis J.M.Daguerre perfects the Daguerreotype Photographic Process.
1837: The Telegraph is patented by Cooke and Wheatstone, Improved by Samuel Morse, First message sent 1844.
1837: Enameled Garter Armlet made for Queen Victoria; Order of the Garter strap and buckle motifs become popular.
1837:Charles Lewis Tiffany founds company in New York City; becomes Tiffany & Co. in 1853.
1837: Falize opens up shop in Paris
Lady Borough, painted between 1527 and 1533. The portrait depicts her in her late teens to early 20s, dressed in the fashion of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon's court.
ers and Serpent motives were loved by the Victorians too.
Antique Cameo Brooch * 1850s mixed metal rose & yellow Gold* bar pin Victorian Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagesparkles
1839: Charles Goodyear invents and patents (1844) Vulcanized Rubber; Displays products at the Crystal Palace in 1851.
1839: Patek, Czapek & Cie. Established by Antoine Norbert De Patek and Francois Czapek.
Victorian Miniature Portrait Locket, Antique Persian Turquoise Cabochon, Circa 1850 Keepsake Mourning Love Token Painted Porcelain Necklace..https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheEdenCollective
1840: Victoria weds Prince Albert.
1840: Electroplating commercialized, patented by Elkingtons of Birgmingham. Large scale jewelry manufacturing begins in USA.
1840: Process for permanently Foiled Pastes discovered.
1840: Steam Power first used for Diamond Cutting in Amsterdam.
1840: Repousse and Machine Stamping replace Cannetille.
1840: Scottish Motifs in Pebble (Agate) jewelry popularized, continuing through the rest of the century.
1840: Algerian Knot Motif introduced in Paris.
14K Gold 1860s .29 Ct Mine Cut Diamond Entwined Serpent Snake Ring ~ Victorian Williamsburg Virginia Estate Treasure..https://www.etsy.com/shop/FindMeTreasures
1842: Gutta-Percha introduced in Paris.
1842: Excavations of Ancient Assyrian Capital of Nineveh begin.
1842: British Kite-Shaped Registry Mark introduced.
c1860 Victorian Locket Antique Gold Cameo Pink Conch Shell Revolving Large Brooch Pendant Birthday Anniversary Wedding Gift Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/AntiqueLockets
1841: Duty on Imported Jewelry and mounted Gemstones levied by USA
Victorian Long Chain Necklace c.1860-80 with Pearls, Opal..https://www.etsy.com/shop/AgedandOpulentJewels
Jewelry Glossary
Memento mori: Skulls, Skeletons and coffins often worked in gold and enamel were the predominant motifs in Memento mori jewelry. The name given to sixteenth through eighteenth century jewelry created as a reminder of ones death and to live life piously. The literal translation is "Remember You Must Die"
Talisman: A Talisman is a charm, amulet or other ornament that has a magical meaning to the wearer. Birthstones are derived from this common practice in Medieval times, although the use of the Talismans is from all ages.
Tricolor Gold: Tricolor Gold is the use of three colors of gold in jewelry fabrication. Usually this is a combination of Yellow, White and Rose or Green gold.
Costume Jewelry: Costume Jewelry is jewelry made from less costly materials. This genre has been known to exist sine the 18th century. Another meaning is jewelry made for a special outfit or costume.
Pinchbeck: Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc (approximately 17% zinc and 83% copper) Invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck. Pinchbeck looked like gold but was much lighter which made it very popular.
Tassel: A Tassel is a hanging ornament usually in the form of threads suspending from cord.
Festoon: A Festoon is an arrangement of flowers, fruit and/ or foliage. The word comes from Latin "Festo" which means as much as feast. Festoons became popular in jewelry during the Neo-Classical period.
Habille: A Habille is a cameo in which jewelry, earrings for instance, is incorporated in the portrait. These highly collectible cameos came in fashion around 1840.
Antique Holtzapffel Ornamental Turning Lathe WITH Accessories. CIRCA 1852
There were only two Gold Standards for hallmarking with the Crown prior to 1854. 22 Karat and 18 Karat. Karat Gold,Tricolor Gold and Silver were the main metals used. After 1854 less expensive karat gold, 9, 12 ad 15 karat were legalized.
New Manufacturing Processes that greatly sped up jewelry production began to be applied for use in the jewelry industry. In 1852 a method for cutting and stamping settings, using hand operated presses was created. These presses turned out entire pieces of beautiful jewelry very quickly.
Machine production of jewelry now included Costume Jewelry, made of Gilt or Pinchbeck with glass imitation gems.
The invention of Electroplating caused a revolution in costume jewelry manufacture.
1840: Victoria weds Prince Albert.
1840: Electroplating commercialized, patented by Elkingtons of Birgmingham. Large scale jewelry manufacturing begins in USA.
1840: Process for permanently Foiled Pastes discovered.
1840: Steam Power first used for Diamond Cutting in Amsterdam.
1840: Repousse and Machine Stamping replace Cannetille.
1840: Scottish Motifs in Pebble (Agate) jewelry popularized, continuing through the rest of the century.
1840: Algerian Knot Motif introduced in Paris.
Horse Frontlet. Ivory. Neo-Assyrian Period, 9th-8th century BCE. Nimrud, Iraq.
When the French conquered Algeria, different design elements from their cultures such as Tassels, Twisted Cords, Knots and Festoons were imitated in gold and translated into jewelry.
In 1848 Sir Austen Henry Laynard published Nineveh and its Remains and jewelers were quick in adopting the Assyrian styles in their jewelry.
The Lotus Flower design was one prominent outcome of this interest.
When the French conquered Algeria, different design elements from their cultures such as Tassels, Twisted Cords, Knots and Festoons were imitated in gold and translated into jewelry.
In 1848 Sir Austen Henry Laynard published Nineveh and its Remains and jewelers were quick in adopting the Assyrian styles in their jewelry.
The Lotus Flower design was one prominent outcome of this interest.
1842: Gutta-Percha introduced in Paris.
1842: Excavations of Ancient Assyrian Capital of Nineveh begin.
1842: British Kite-Shaped Registry Mark introduced.
Stunning Victorian Cameo This is one of the best coral cameos you will ever see. Its Victorian and set in 14kt yellow gold frame. The cameo is carved in great relief with flowers, drapes and swags.
Queen Victoria loved Cameos, and as a result cameos enjoyed a resurgence in popularity.
Some of the Queens favorites were cameos carved in extremely high relief in Onyx, Dyed Challedony, Amethyst and other gems.
Large Shell cameos with Mythological themes and figures along with Habilles, Shell cameos decorated with Gem-Set Jewelry and inlaid Hardstone elements were favorites of the Victorians.
Queen Victoria loved Cameos, and as a result cameos enjoyed a resurgence in popularity.
Some of the Queens favorites were cameos carved in extremely high relief in Onyx, Dyed Challedony, Amethyst and other gems.
Large Shell cameos with Mythological themes and figures along with Habilles, Shell cameos decorated with Gem-Set Jewelry and inlaid Hardstone elements were favorites of the Victorians.
1841: Duty on Imported Jewelry and mounted Gemstones levied by USA
Jewelry Glossary
Memento mori: Skulls, Skeletons and coffins often worked in gold and enamel were the predominant motifs in Memento mori jewelry. The name given to sixteenth through eighteenth century jewelry created as a reminder of ones death and to live life piously. The literal translation is "Remember You Must Die"
Talisman: A Talisman is a charm, amulet or other ornament that has a magical meaning to the wearer. Birthstones are derived from this common practice in Medieval times, although the use of the Talismans is from all ages.
Tricolor Gold: Tricolor Gold is the use of three colors of gold in jewelry fabrication. Usually this is a combination of Yellow, White and Rose or Green gold.
Costume Jewelry: Costume Jewelry is jewelry made from less costly materials. This genre has been known to exist sine the 18th century. Another meaning is jewelry made for a special outfit or costume.
Pinchbeck: Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc (approximately 17% zinc and 83% copper) Invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck. Pinchbeck looked like gold but was much lighter which made it very popular.
Tassel: A Tassel is a hanging ornament usually in the form of threads suspending from cord.
Festoon: A Festoon is an arrangement of flowers, fruit and/ or foliage. The word comes from Latin "Festo" which means as much as feast. Festoons became popular in jewelry during the Neo-Classical period.
Habille: A Habille is a cameo in which jewelry, earrings for instance, is incorporated in the portrait. These highly collectible cameos came in fashion around 1840.
Antique Gutta Percha Victorian Bracelet Mourning Jewelry Carved Cameo Black Wide Wrap Bracelet Antique Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/boylerpf
Excellent article and examples of fabulous jewelry and photos of this era. Great reference point on the definitions of fine jewelry, too. Well done!
ReplyDeleteGreat blog. I will be using this as a reference point with such a lot of valuable dates and knowledge. Beautiful unique jewelry! Very interesting blog and would love to see more of it.
ReplyDeletewow this is something that has to be read over and over
ReplyDeleteMy first 2 comments have disappeared and I'm hoping 3's a charm! I found this article so well written and informative and thought too that jewels our teammates contributed made a wonderful counterpoint to the paintings and other historical pieces in the body of the work. A very professional blog and I found the glossary extremely helpful as well. I am sure that I will come back to it as a reference and am very grateful that you produced this wonderful study!
ReplyDeleteFabulous blog as usual Rick - so much information, and the jewels are incredible! I love that gutta percha!
ReplyDeleteMost excellent my friend! Well done indeed!
ReplyDeleteIncredible pieces from our team, and the information is excellent. A great resource! Well done Rick.
ReplyDelete