Victorian Grand Period 1860-1885
Victorian Jewelry: Grand Period 1860-1885..Pt.1
The Grand Period 1860-1885 was a glorious time and also a time for mourning for the Victorians.
Victorian women's fashion was undergoing a radical transition and the large and cumbersome Crinolines and restrictive Corsets made Victorian life a little more difficult for the Victorian women.
Crinoline hoops had to be removed before taking your seat in a carriage and then they were hooked onto the back of the carriage c1860
Antique 14k GOLD DIAMOND BROOCH Pin Victorian Art Nouveau 14k Bloom Gold Diamond Poppy Flower Brooch Pin Circa 1879...https://www.etsy.com/shop/DaffodilsVintage
1861: Civil War begins (1861-1865) Lincoln Inaugurated.
1861: Prince Consort Albert dies; Queen Victoria enters prolonged period of mourning.
1861: Fortunato Pio Castellani turns business over to son Augusto.
1861: Wearing of (Black) Mourning jewelry required at British Court until circa 1880.
The Grand Period was a time of Revivals of Ancient Jewelry styles. The Victorians had a passion for Ancient History, recent Archaeological Discoveries and written accounts of the exploits of Ancient Civilizations.
During the Grand Period the jewelry business flourished throughout Europe.
Antique Victorian Pendant Faux Tortoiseshell Sterling Silver Spring Daffodil Flower Floral Inlay Initial D c. 1880s Jewelry...https://www.etsy.com/shop/bohemiantrading
1862: International Exhibition held in London.
1862: Japanese Decorative Arts exhibited for the first time in the West.
1862: Archaeological Revival Gold Jewelry exhibited by Castellani of Rome at International Exhibition..The archaeological revival are neo-styles of the 18th and 19th centuries inspired by excavations/discoveries of Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Etruscan sites.
1862: Reverse Intaglios by Charles Cook shown at Exhibition.
Empress Eugenie with her beautiful jewelry - c1853
In France, the Second Empire, led by Napoleon III and his Empress Eugenie was influencing fashion and jewelry design.
Eugenie had a passion for Emeralds making them almost as desirable as Diamonds, which caused quite a stir in France.
Tiara jewels suddenly became very popular. Empress Eugenie favored elaborate Tiara jewels with Scrollwork and Diamond & Emerald Drops.
Victorian Mourning Ring 15k with Black Enamel & Pearls, circa 1880...https://www.etsy.com/shop/BelmontandBellamy
1883: Edward, Prince of Wales, marries Alexandra of Denmark.
1863: Castellani claims to be earliest reviver of Plique-a-Jour Enamel. Plique-à-jour, a French term that translates to "letting in the daylight" and defines a type of transparent enamel that has no backing. Similar to a stained glass window.
1865: Sapphires found in Missouri River in Montana.
1865: The Idol's Eye Diamond's first appearance in recorded history, It's Sold by Christies in London.
Antique Victorian Brooch Silver Brooch Snake Pin Serpents Antique Jewelry 1880s Snake Jewelry...https://www.etsy.com/shop/IfindUseekVintage
Napoleon III (1808 - 1873). Emperor of France from 1852 to 1870. He married Eugénie de Montijo and had one son. He industrialized France and built most of modern Paris. He was deposed in 1870 after losing the battle of Sedan.
Napoleon also had a passion for beautiful jewelry and loved collecting Antique Cameos.
Napoleon was credited with the Revival of the Cameo Industry.
VICTORIAN Bar Pin Brooch Cutwork Asian Oriental Design Gold Silver Lapel Pin MARCASITES Cut Steel...https://www.etsy.com/shop/thepopularjewelry
1866: Benoitons Became popular. A Benoiton is a Hair Decoration, consisting of several chains which were secured in the hair. These chains were held in place on the bodice.
1867:Paris International Exhibition
1867: First Authenticated Diamond the "Eureka" discovered in South Africa.
1867: Eqyptian Revival Jewelry exhibited at Paris Exposition, John Brogden wins Gold Medal for his jewelry.
1867: Parisian firm Boucheron begins production of Plique-a-Jour Enamels.
ANtique Chatelaine hook brooch watch clip 1880's Victorian GOLD ENAMEL 9kt gold layered...https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagesparkles
Goldsmith Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895) working in the Neo-Renaissance Style throughout this period, embraced the Renaissance Aesthetic and created beautiful jewelry designs to suit the Victorian woman.
1868: Celluloid, the First successful Semi-Synthetic Thermoplastic invented by John Wesley Hyatt in the U.S.A. commercial production begins in 1873...Celluloid is an early plastic. It is a highly flammable compound made from camphor and guncotton.
1868: Gorham Mfg. Co., Providence, R.I. adopts Sterling Standard of 925 parts per thousand.
1869: First Transcontinental Railroad from Omaha to San Francisco.
1869: Suez Canal opened.
1869: Diamond Rush begins in South Africa with the discovery of the"Star of Africa"
1860s Georgian - Authentic Sterling Silver Paste Necklace ~ Victorian Antique...https://www.etsy.com/shop/FindMeTreasures
Fabulous jewelry in the Egyptian Style flourished during the Victorian Grand Period as a result of work being done on the Suez Canal, Egyptian excavation of Auguste Mariette and the exhibit of Egyptian treasures at the Exposition Universelle 1867.
Winged Scarabs, Falcons and other Egyptian influenced motives decorated with green, red and blue enamels were created by French jewellers Mellerio, Boucheron and Fromet-Meurice.
1880's Victorian Almandine Garnet Star Cluster G.F. Brooch Pin...https://www.etsy.com/shop/nancysjewelrybox2
1869: Henry D. Morse cuts the Dewey Diamond, largest in America to date - 23,75 ct to 11,70ct -.
1869: American Horological Journal first published, merges with the Jewelers Circular to become the Jeweler' Circular and Horological Review.
1870: Fall of the French Empire.
1870: Start of a recession in Europe that lasts throughout the decade.
1870: Diamonds discovered in Kimberley, South Africa.
19th c Victorian mourning pressed horn floral brooch pin...https://www.etsy.com/shop/Oselavy
More jewelry styles joined the popular Renaissance and Egyptian ascetic, including a Classic Revival of Greek and Etruscan styles.
Jeweler Fortunato Pio Castellani devoted a great deal of his time searching for the secret art of Etruscan Granulation, claiming to have found the answer in a remote area of the Apennines.
Castellani using his Granulation skills along with many other Ancient jewelry techniques went on to create beautiful replicas of jewels discovered in the excavations of Ancient Greek civilizations.
Victorian Etruscan Revival Antique Vintage Gold Filled Brooch and Earrings Suite Set 19th Century Circa 1885... Book Piece...https://www.etsy.com/shop/jewelry1925
Jewelry enhancement techniques such as engraving and chasing were replaced by the Revival of Ancient techniques to create unique Matte and pieces with shiny surfaces. Beautiful jewels with depth and relief were created using corded wire, Filigree and Granulation.
Castellani's work was adopted most famously by Fontnay in France, John Brogden and Robert Phillips in London and by Carlo Giuliano originally from Naples, now living in London.
Castellani's work was spreading throughout Europe.
Shell Cameo MOP Silver Setting c1885-1910....https://www.etsy.com/shop/AgedandOpulentJewels
1870: Japanese craftsmen introduced metal-working techniques and designs to the west.
1870: Influx of European craftsmen and designers into the U.S.A.
1870: Peter Carl Faberge takes over father's business.
1870: Jewelers' Circular founded, first issue published Feb.15.
1872: International Exhibition held in London.
I loved reading about traveling with the hoop skirts...wondered how they managed that one! Beautiful jewelry examples and a wonderful walk through history! Well done!
ReplyDeleteMe too, Alicia! I had no idea it was such an ordeal. Another fantastic blog entry, Rick, and I really do love how you've incorporated the time line into your piece.It is very helpful!
ReplyDeleteGreat stuff Rick. Thanks so much for including my enamel mourning ring. I had no idea the woman had to hang the hoops on the back of the carriages. Makes sense when you think about it. Great info and lovely jewelry. I will promote every way I can.
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