Victorian Grand Period 1860-1885

Victorian Grand Period 1860-1885

Victorian Jewelry: Grand Period 1860-1885..Pt.1

The Grand Period 1860-1885 was a glorious time and also a time for mourning for the Victorians. 

Victorian women's fashion was undergoing a radical transition and the large and cumbersome Crinolines and restrictive Corsets made Victorian life a little more difficult for the Victorian women.

Crinoline hoops had to be removed before taking your seat in a carriage and then they were hooked onto the back of the carriage c1860

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1861: Civil War begins (1861-1865) Lincoln Inaugurated.

1861: Prince Consort Albert dies; Queen Victoria enters prolonged period of mourning.

1861: Fortunato Pio Castellani turns business over to son Augusto.

1861: Wearing of (Black) Mourning jewelry required at British Court until circa 1880.

The Grand Period was a time of Revivals of Ancient Jewelry styles. The Victorians had a passion for Ancient History, recent Archaeological Discoveries and written accounts of the exploits of Ancient Civilizations.

During the Grand Period the jewelry business flourished throughout Europe.

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1862: International Exhibition held in London.

1862: Japanese Decorative Arts exhibited for the first time in the West.

1862: Archaeological Revival Gold Jewelry exhibited by Castellani of Rome at International Exhibition..The archaeological revival are neo-styles of the 18th and 19th centuries inspired by excavations/discoveries of Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Etruscan sites. 

1862: Reverse Intaglios by Charles Cook shown at Exhibition.

Empress Eugenie with her beautiful jewelry - c1853

In France, the Second Empire, led by Napoleon III and his Empress Eugenie was influencing fashion and jewelry design.

Eugenie had a passion for Emeralds making them almost as desirable as Diamonds, which caused quite a stir in France.

Tiara jewels suddenly became very popular. Empress Eugenie favored elaborate Tiara jewels with Scrollwork and Diamond & Emerald Drops.

Victorian Mourning Ring 15k with Black Enamel & Pearls, circa 1880...https://www.etsy.com/shop/BelmontandBellamy

1883: Edward, Prince of Wales, marries Alexandra of Denmark.

1863: Castellani claims to be earliest reviver of Plique-a-Jour Enamel.  Plique-à-jour, a French term that translates to "letting in the daylight" and defines a type of transparent enamel that has no backing. Similar to a stained glass window.

1865: Sapphires found in Missouri River in Montana.

1865: The Idol's Eye Diamond's first appearance in recorded history, It's Sold by Christies in London.

Antique Victorian Brooch Silver Brooch Snake Pin Serpents Antique Jewelry 1880s Snake Jewelry...https://www.etsy.com/shop/IfindUseekVintage

Napoleon III (1808 - 1873). Emperor of France from 1852 to 1870. He married Eugénie de Montijo and had one son. He industrialized France and built most of modern Paris. He was deposed in 1870 after losing the battle of Sedan.

Napoleon also had a passion for beautiful jewelry and loved collecting Antique Cameos. 

Napoleon was credited with the Revival of the Cameo Industry.

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1866: Benoitons Became popular. A Benoiton is a Hair Decoration, consisting of several chains which were secured in the hair. These chains were held in place on the bodice.

1867:Paris International Exhibition

1867: First Authenticated Diamond the "Eureka" discovered in South Africa.

1867: Eqyptian Revival Jewelry exhibited at Paris Exposition, John Brogden wins Gold Medal for his jewelry.

1867: Parisian firm Boucheron begins production of Plique-a-Jour Enamels.

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Goldsmith Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895) working in the Neo-Renaissance Style throughout this period, embraced the Renaissance Aesthetic and created beautiful jewelry designs to suit the Victorian woman.

1868: Celluloid, the First successful Semi-Synthetic Thermoplastic invented by John Wesley Hyatt in the U.S.A. commercial production begins in 1873...Celluloid is an early plastic. It is a highly flammable compound made from camphor and guncotton.

1868: Gorham Mfg. Co., Providence, R.I. adopts Sterling Standard of  925 parts per thousand.

1869: First Transcontinental Railroad from Omaha to San Francisco.

1869: Suez Canal opened.

1869: Diamond Rush begins in South Africa with the discovery of the"Star of Africa"

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Fabulous jewelry in the Egyptian Style flourished during the Victorian Grand Period as a result of work being done on the Suez Canal, Egyptian excavation of Auguste Mariette and the exhibit of Egyptian treasures at the Exposition Universelle 1867.

Winged Scarabs, Falcons and other Egyptian influenced motives decorated with green, red and blue enamels were created by French jewellers Mellerio, Boucheron and Fromet-Meurice.

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1869: Henry D. Morse cuts the Dewey Diamond, largest in America to date - 23,75 ct to 11,70ct -.

1869: American Horological Journal first published, merges with the Jewelers Circular to become the Jeweler' Circular and Horological Review.

1870: Fall of the French Empire.

1870: Start of a recession in Europe that lasts throughout the decade.

1870: Diamonds discovered in Kimberley, South Africa. 

19th c Victorian mourning pressed horn floral brooch pin...https://www.etsy.com/shop/Oselavy

More jewelry styles joined the popular Renaissance and Egyptian ascetic, including a Classic Revival of Greek and Etruscan styles.

Jeweler Fortunato Pio Castellani devoted a great deal of his time searching for the secret art of Etruscan Granulation, claiming to have found the answer in a remote area of the Apennines.

Castellani using his Granulation skills along with many other Ancient jewelry techniques went on to create beautiful replicas of jewels discovered in the excavations of Ancient Greek civilizations.

Victorian Etruscan Revival Antique Vintage Gold Filled Brooch and Earrings Suite Set 19th Century Circa 1885... Book Piece...https://www.etsy.com/shop/jewelry1925

Jewelry enhancement techniques such as engraving and chasing were replaced by the Revival of Ancient techniques to create unique Matte and pieces with shiny surfaces. Beautiful jewels with depth and relief were created using corded wire, Filigree and Granulation.

Castellani's work was adopted most famously by Fontnay in France, John Brogden and Robert Phillips in London and by Carlo Giuliano originally from Naples, now living in London.

Castellani's work was spreading throughout Europe.

Shell Cameo MOP Silver Setting c1885-1910....https://www.etsy.com/shop/AgedandOpulentJewels

1870: Japanese craftsmen introduced metal-working techniques and designs to the west.

1870: Influx of European craftsmen and designers into the U.S.A.

1870: Peter Carl Faberge takes over father's business.

1870: Jewelers' Circular founded, first issue published Feb.15.

1872: International Exhibition held in London.

Victorian Jewelry: The Romantic Period 1837 to 1860 

PART TWO

1. Pieces crafted from beautiful Coral, Mother-of-Pearl and Seed Pearls from the Sea. Unique pieces crafted from "Jet" a fossilized wood from the Jurassic period and "Hairwork" a very unique and detailed jewelry created from Human Hair.

1. Antique Gutta Percha Victorian Bracelet Hinged Bangle 14K Gold Antique Jewelry 1850s Mourning Jewelry....https://www.etsy.com/shop/boylerpf.
2. 1843: Gerrard becomes British Crown Jeweler
   1846: Riker, Tay & Searing founded in Newark, NJ, becomes Riker Bros. in 1892.
   1847: Cartier founded in Paris.
3. 

1860's LOVE 9K Antique Gold Locket Necklace Rose Gold Victorian Locket Oval Floral Engraved Wedding Anniversary Birthday Gift Jewelry....https://www.etsy.com/shop/AntiqueLockets

Coral was very popular during the Romantic Period and remained that way until c.1865.

Usually Coral was worn in its original branch form, which was a custom in Italy to protect children and to ward off the evil eye.

Victorian women loved their Coral Bead jewelry. Beads come in many sizes and colors and were strung around necks in great volume.

Coral is an organic gemstone which is cut from a mass of skeletons, secreted by polyps as a calcareous habitat. Much like the trade in ivory, the trade in old coral is still acceptable and many coral artifacts are of historic value.

1848: Balmoral Castle in Scotland purchased by Queen Victoria.

1848: Gold Discovered in California. 

1848: Thomas H. Lowe of Birmingham introduces Rolled Gold Plating process (A.K.A. Gold Filled) to Providence, R.I. manufactures.

1860s Georgian - Authentic Sterling Silver Paste Necklace ~ Victorian Antique...https://www.etsy.com/shop/FindMeTreasures

Mother-of-Pearl and Seed Pearls were used extensively in creating intricate jewelry pieces with beautiful Flowers, Leaves an Scrolls.
The Victorians loved Flowers and this became one of the most popular Seed Pearl designs.
Seed Pearls were used in many jewelry pieces including the framing of large elegant gemstones to enhance the design.

Seed Pearls are very small in size; less than one-quarter grain in weight, usually smaller than 2mm in size and not perfectly round. Seed pearls are imported from India and China. Historically Seed Pearls occur naturally.

Mother-of-Pearl is a nacreous, lustrous. iridescent lining of the shell of a mollusk that can be carved and cut for jewelry and other decorative purposes.

1849: California Gold Rush.
1849: The Safety Pin invented and patented by W.Hunt.
1849: Gold Electroplating patented.
1849: Opals first discovered in Australia, The first with play of color in 1863.

ANTIQUE 1870 10KT Victorian chatelaine brooch gold taille d epergne watch pin....https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagesparkles 

Mourning and Sentimental jewelry flourished during the Romantic period.

Through the 16th and 18th centuries Memento mori jewelry was popular, but became even more so after the passing of the Queen's Albert.

Typically, Mourning jewelry is traditionally worn when someone is in mourning.

Materials typically used in the creating of Mourning jewelry are Black Enamel, Jet, Onyx, Human Hair, Glass, Vulcanite and Gutta-Percha.

Human Hair was also used in the creation of Sentimental jewelry, created in a painterly style to depict Prince of Wales Feathers, Ships, Landscapes and other Sentimental subjects.

The art form of Hairwork was so prevalent that a life-size portrait of Queen Victoria made entirely of hair was constructed for the Paris Exposition of 1855.

Vulcanite is compressed (vulcanized)rubber. Vulcanite was a less expensive material than jet and used for similar jewelry items.

Gutta-percha is a dark rubbery, organic substance derived from tropical trees.

1850: High tariff placed on Foreign Goods imported into the USA.

1850: Tube shaped (Trombone) Safety Catch patented by Charles Rowley of Birmingham, England.

1850: Brooches with swiveling compartments introduced.

1850: Garnet-Glass Doublets first introduced.

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Jet was being used to create Chains, Beads and Carvings for a Fashionable Mourning period.

Imitations such as French Jet, cheaply made glass imitations were also available.

Jet formed from Fossilized Wood of a Jurassic Period Tree that upon dying, often ended up as driftwood that was swept out to sea. Under great pressure for millions of years and with all of the requisite elements, ordinary driftwood is transformed into the gem known as Jet.

1851: Gold and Diamonds first discovered in Australia.

1851: Hard Rubber (Vulcanite) patented by Nelson Goodyear.

1851: Artificial Aventurine (Goldstone) exhibited at Crystal Palace.

1851: Edward Moore becomes Director of Tiffay & Co.

1851: First International Exhibition, The Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations. Held at the Crystal Palace in London.

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Victorian Jewelry: The Romantic Period 1837 to 1860

Victorian Jewelry: The Romantic Period 1837 to 1860

Part One

Vintage Victorian Bracelet Gold Gate Link Citrine Gemstone Bracelet 1840s Victorian Jewelry Fine Antique Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/boylerpf

Queen Victoria's Emerald Parure.

The Victorian Jewelry Era was a magnificent time in the History of Antique Jewelry that lasted the entire lifespan of its namesake Queen from 1837 to 1901. Advances in technology, the growing middle class, discovery of gold in California and Australia and women overtaking men as the primary jewelry wearers all resulted in more jewelry being produced during the nineteenth century than in all prior history.

Antique Mourning Ring, 1840s 18k with Black Enamel and Hair..https://www.etsy.com/shop/BelmontandBellamy

1837: Victoria Becomes Queen.
1837: Louis J.M.Daguerre perfects the Daguerreotype Photographic Process.
1837: The Telegraph is patented by Cooke and Wheatstone, Improved by Samuel Morse, First message sent 1844.
1837: Enameled Garter Armlet made for Queen Victoria; Order of the Garter strap and buckle motifs become popular.
1837:Charles Lewis Tiffany founds company in New York City; becomes Tiffany & Co. in 1853.
1837: Falize opens up shop in Paris

 Lady Borough, painted between 1527 and 1533. The portrait depicts her in her late teens to early 20s, dressed in the fashion of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon's court.

Beautiful jewelry inspired by the Renaissance and Middle Ages was very popular. Production of Memento mori, Religious and Talismantic jewelry was everywhere and suddenly a necessity for everyone. Symbolism associated with Flow

ers and Serpent motives were loved by the Victorians too.

Antique Cameo Brooch * 1850s mixed metal rose & yellow Gold* bar pin Victorian Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagesparkles

1839: Charles Goodyear invents and patents (1844) Vulcanized Rubber; Displays products at the Crystal Palace in 1851.

1839: Patek, Czapek & Cie. Established by Antoine Norbert De Patek and Francois Czapek.

Antique Holtzapffel Ornamental Turning Lathe WITH Accessories. CIRCA 1852

There were only two Gold Standards for hallmarking with the Crown prior to 1854. 22 Karat and 18 Karat. Karat Gold,Tricolor Gold and Silver were the main metals used. After 1854 less expensive karat gold, 9, 12 ad 15 karat were legalized.

New Manufacturing Processes that greatly sped up jewelry production began to be applied for use in the jewelry industry. In 1852 a method for cutting and stamping settings, using hand operated presses was created. These presses turned out entire pieces of beautiful jewelry very quickly.

Machine production of jewelry now included Costume Jewelry, made of Gilt or Pinchbeck with glass imitation gems.

The invention of Electroplating caused a revolution in costume jewelry manufacture.

Victorian Miniature Portrait Locket, Antique Persian Turquoise Cabochon, Circa 1850 Keepsake Mourning Love Token Painted Porcelain Necklace..https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheEdenCollective

1840: Victoria weds Prince Albert.
1840: Electroplating commercialized, patented by Elkingtons of Birgmingham. Large scale jewelry manufacturing begins in USA.
1840: Process for permanently Foiled Pastes discovered.
1840: Steam Power first used for Diamond Cutting in Amsterdam.
1840: Repousse and Machine Stamping replace Cannetille.
1840: Scottish Motifs in Pebble (Agate) jewelry popularized, continuing through the rest of the century.
1840: Algerian Knot Motif introduced in Paris.

Horse Frontlet. Ivory. Neo-Assyrian Period, 9th-8th century BCE. Nimrud, Iraq.

When the French conquered Algeria, different design elements from their cultures such as Tassels, Twisted Cords, Knots and Festoons were imitated in gold and translated into jewelry.
In 1848 Sir Austen Henry Laynard published Nineveh and its Remains and jewelers were quick in adopting the Assyrian styles in their jewelry.
The Lotus Flower design was one prominent outcome of this interest.

14K Gold 1860s .29 Ct Mine Cut Diamond Entwined Serpent Snake Ring ~ Victorian Williamsburg Virginia Estate Treasure..https://www.etsy.com/shop/FindMeTreasures
1842: Gutta-Percha introduced in Paris.
1842: Excavations of Ancient Assyrian Capital of Nineveh begin.
1842: British Kite-Shaped Registry Mark introduced.

Stunning Victorian Cameo This is one of the best coral cameos you will ever see. Its Victorian and set in 14kt yellow gold frame. The cameo is carved in great relief with flowers, drapes and swags.

Queen Victoria loved Cameos, and as a result cameos enjoyed a resurgence in popularity.
Some of the Queens favorites were cameos carved in extremely high relief in Onyx, Dyed Challedony, Amethyst and other gems.
Large Shell cameos with Mythological themes and figures along with Habilles, Shell cameos decorated with Gem-Set Jewelry and inlaid Hardstone elements were favorites of the Victorians. 

c1860 Victorian Locket Antique Gold Cameo Pink Conch Shell Revolving Large Brooch Pendant Birthday Anniversary Wedding Gift Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/AntiqueLockets

1841: Duty on Imported Jewelry and mounted Gemstones levied by USA 

Victorian Long Chain Necklace c.1860-80 with Pearls, Opal..https://www.etsy.com/shop/AgedandOpulentJewels

Jewelry Glossary
Memento mori: Skulls, Skeletons and coffins often worked in gold and enamel were the predominant motifs in Memento mori jewelry. The name given to sixteenth through eighteenth century jewelry created as a reminder of ones death and to live life piously. The literal translation is "Remember You Must Die"

Talisman: A Talisman is a charm, amulet or other ornament that has a magical meaning to the wearer. Birthstones are derived from this common practice in Medieval times, although the use of the Talismans is from all ages.

Tricolor Gold: Tricolor Gold is the use of three colors of gold in jewelry fabrication. Usually this is a combination of Yellow, White and Rose or Green gold.

Costume Jewelry: Costume Jewelry is jewelry made from less costly materials. This genre has been known to exist sine the 18th century. Another meaning is jewelry made for a special outfit or costume.

Pinchbeck: Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc (approximately 17% zinc and 83% copper) Invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck. Pinchbeck looked like gold but was much lighter which made it very popular.

Tassel: A Tassel is a hanging ornament usually in the form of threads suspending from cord.

Festoon: A Festoon is an arrangement of flowers, fruit and/ or foliage. The word comes from Latin "Festo" which means as much as feast. Festoons became popular in jewelry during the Neo-Classical period.

Habille: A Habille is a cameo in which jewelry, earrings for instance, is incorporated in the portrait. These highly collectible cameos came in fashion around 1840.

Antique Gutta Percha Victorian Bracelet Mourning Jewelry Carved Cameo Black Wide Wrap Bracelet Antique Jewelry..https://www.etsy.com/shop/boylerpf